Lloyd's Motorcycle Performance Center

Service you can depend on. Prices you can live with.

                       Minor Tune (oem recommended tune up service, valve adjustment)



Shim under bucket $425               (Most 2000+ year bikes & most sport bikes fall into this price range)

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There are exceptions... ie- V-star 1300 @ $460.  VTX1800 and every other motorcycle with no proper fuel shut off- @ $530.  Royal Star Venture @ $495.  09-12 ZX6R @ $460.   GL1800/ABS, Concours1400, ZX14, 2011^ ZX10R, CBR929/954/600/1000RR, CB919, RC51, VFR800 all at $495.  ST1100/1300 & Honda V-tech @ $600


Some shim under bucket are slightly cheaper....ie , FZ09, SV650, 08^ Ninja 250 @ $375. Triumph Speed triple @ $400


Shim on top of bucket, screw type adjusters and hydraulic lifter bikes (and the few slide over rocker arm bikes) typically being in the ~$375 range



This is time consuming and on average I spend 8 hours to do one bike to make sure it is properly done and to my exacting standards, but there are also bikes that I easily spend  10+ hours on. 


This service includes precise valve adjustment, exacting throttle body synchronization/carburetor synchronization, TPS adjustment, oil/filter change, air filter cleaning or replacing, new properly gapped spark plugs installed, lever pivot pins are disassembled-cleaned and properly lubed, cable adjustments and power lubing those cables, drive chain/belt adjustment or final drive fluid changed, brake fluid flushed and pads checked, tire air pressures set and tread depth inspected, lights all checked, charging system and battery tested and more. The service manual checklist is complete, insuring that your motorcycle will perform at its best. There is no "close enough" attitude here at Lloyd's. I either do it correctly and to the most exacting standards I can or I won't do it at all !

Parts are extra on all services, these are simply labor prices. 

 MINIMUM RECOMMENDED VALVE ADJUSTMENT SERVICE

Much like the oem recommended service @ 7,500// 14,000// 16,000 miles or whatever your bike states for the valve adjustment service.

~This is minus the oil change, brake flush, pivot pin lubing, chain adjustment/final drive fluid change, tire pressures etc.~

What is done; Precise adjustment of the valve clearance, throttle position sensor adjustment, and throttle body or carburetor synchronization, plugs, stick coil cleaning/testing, brake pad inspection, lights and charging system checked,   cable adjustments and other sensor checks and adjustments are also done. 

Example pricing is:

Most bikes this service will be $50 less than the oem listed service above

This service is geared towards the people that do most of their own maintenance, but are not set up for or confident in adjusting the valves and synchronizing throttle bodies/carburetors and testing all those electric sensors.

 

This service still takes on average about 6 hours with a few bikes still in that 7-8 hour range, only the easiest of adjustments and maintenance items are eliminated from the OEM recommended Valve adjustment service tune up... This service is geared towards those who still like to do many of the easier to do maintenance tasks themself but still want to make sure the tune up procedures are done professionally and precisely.

MAJOR SERVICE TUNE

 7,500//14,000//16,000 mile and over 5 years old service and so much more depending on make and model. 

 If you look in the service manual and do everything listed regardless of mileage plus more, then you have an idea of how thorough this service is. But it really is even more than all that. Go to the pictures page and you can view just how extensive this service really is. ~ see list below~ 

 Typically this service runs in the $895.00 plus parts range for the majority of bikes.......................................$895

 

   And a few examples of more expensive;

ST1100/1300 @...............................................................................................................................................$1,250

Royal Star Venture, VTX1800 & every other motorcycle without a proper fuel shut off...............................$1,200 

Concours1400 ABS,  @ ..................... .............................................................................................................. $995

Concours 1400, ZX14, 2011^ ZX10R ABS, FJR1300, RC51 @ ......................................................................$975 

GL1800 ABS,  2011^ ZX10R, CBR929RR/954RR/08^ 1000RR, V-Star 1300 @............................................$950

Stratoliner, Venture Royal, Royal Star, M109,  GL1500, pre 2010 ZX10R, 09-12 ZX6R @.............................$925

   And a few examples of less expensive;

Older shadows, GS550-1150, ZX-11/ ZZR1200, Vulcan 1500, Nighthawk/CB 550/650/700S/750/900/1000...$825

 KZ 305/400/440, Ninja 250R/300/500R, CBR250R/300/500, Nighthawk/CB 250/450, SV650.......................$795

Here is a list of approximately what all is done as the list varies slightly between models.  This service is the most complete care you can get. I do the entire list in the service manual and so much more.

Valve adjustment:  I have over 13,000 shims on hand to make them all perfect.  No "close-enough" attitude. This is the same professional precision I bring to every valve adjustment I do. Each valve will be adjusted to within .0005" of what clearance is desired, generally dead center in the allowable range.

Inspect:  Cam lobes, cam chain, cam sprockets and cam chain tensioner, always cleaning the tensioner for close inspection, and numerous tensioners get the shaft polished.

Throttle body or carburetor synchronization are adjusted to as close as perfect as I can get them.

Idle fuel mixture is adjusted whenever possible. 

Suspension linkages are disassembled, cleaned, inspected and lubed. 

Swing arm is removed and the bearings are cleaned and lubed as is the swing arm pivot bolt. 

Steering head bearings removed, (lower bearing is left on the triple stem) cleaned, properly lubed with waterproof grease and adjusted- some bikes is it more prudent to just replace with good tapered roller bearings.

Fork oil is changed, including the damper rod/cartridge, which means complete disassembly and cleaning, new seals and often new bushings will be installed. 

All pivot bushings including the shifter pedal, rear brake pedal, brake and clutch lever pivot pins and bushings, shifter linkage arm and rear brake arm are removed cleaned and properly lubed.

Foot pegs are removed, cleaned and pins lubed. 

All the cables; throttle, clutch, choke, speedometer and exhaust servo, if so equipped, are pressure lubed and adjusted. 

Brake pad pins are removed, cleaned and lubed. Albeit very lightly. The brake pistons are also cleaned as are the sealed slider pins on such calipers 

Sensors are electronically checked and adjusted whenever needed/possible. (there are about 10 on modern bikes)

TPS (throttle position sensor) adjusted.

Exhaust valve, if so equipped, is adjusted and these cables are power lubed as well.

Counter balancer(s) adjustment when applicable. 

Wheels are removed for proper checking and lubricating of all the wheel bearings.  Some have metal shields and are not accessible, but the vast majority are rubber shielded and serviceable.

Axles are cleaned and lubed.

Brake/clutch fluids are flushed completely.  Brake caliper and axle pinch bolts are all anti seized and properly torqued as applicable.

Electrical connectors are checked, cleaned and protected.  The charging system connections are cleaned and output is also inspected.

Oil and filter are changed.

Spark plugs are changed with properly gapped plugs.

Air filter is cleaned/replaced as needed.

Battery is removed and serviced.  Non-sealed batteries may be topped off with distilled water.

Whichever final drive system your bike has, it is taken care of. Chain is cleaned, adjusted and lubed or the final drive fluid is changed.  The splines on shaft drive bikes are cleaned and lubed. The drive belt is inspected and adjusted/replaced if so warranted. 

Oil pressure and fuel pressure/output is checked when possible.

All the lights, horn etc. are all checked as well. 

Fuel filter cleaned or replaced when applicable, including the in tank fuel pump screen when applicable

You of course get a whole slew of pictures of the work as well.  The list is long and varies slightly between different bikes but it is very extensive, not to mention time consuming.  At some point during this service your motorcycle will basically be a frame and an engine- it is that comprehensive of service. On average this takes about 15-20 hours to do one bike.

Fuel injectors; these can be flow tested and cleaned for approximately $120 additional to any tune up cost. Unfortunately this takes about 5 day turn around time as I send these out to an injector specialist shop in Florida.

On carbureted bikes, you can typically add in a full carburetor cleaning to any tune up for $75 off the listed carburetor cleaning price below. (in the carburetor cleaning section)

This is an excellent choice for the first time service, the 5+-year-old bike that hasn't seen its service yet.  Or that "used" bike that you aren't quite sure what has truly been serviced. This is an intensive, no holds barred service.  Everything on the bike that is adjustable or lubeable is done.  Which every bike will need sooner or later.  If you go to the pictures page and view them you will see numerous bikes with dry steering head bearings, corroded shifter linkages, rusty pivot bushings, worn suspension linkages etc.  You will not regret "upgrading" to the most extensive service you can find. Not only will your ride quality and enjoyment of motorcycling be enough improved to make you wonder why you waited so long to do this but everything on the bike will work better and last longer. Your motorcycle will have never worked better.    

 

 FORK SEALS AND SUSPENSION WORK 



On the bike pricing; generally fork seals run $120-150.00 for the pair ( I will only do both at once or none)

some bikes do take longer and are harder, thus more expensive (ie- Victory Vision, Royal Star Venture etc $200), but typically most are between $120 and $150 to replace


Off the bike pricing; generally this runns $90-$120 for the pair


Fork oil change takes nearly the same time as fork seal replacement, so prices are very similar


of course plus the parts...


Adding new fork springs at this time or replacing bushings (highly recommended) only add the cost of those parts. no additional labor changes


Suspension tuning..........


New components (ie Racetech springs and gold valves, Axxion valves, Traxxion omni springs, Penske, Ohlins etc are all available)

 Shock rebuilds available..... on all aftermarket shocks

CARBURETOR CLEANING / Jetting

 

--CARBURETOR CLEANING--again this varies by bike, but expect anything more than 7 years old to need new o-rings at a minimum.

Those 15+ year old bikes will be getting complete rebuild kits, which can run from $20-$60 per carburetor.


 I completely disassemble the carburetor assemblies and all the brass parts go into a chemical soaker, the aluminum bodies and plastic parts go into an ultrasonic water based solution for cleaning, and then everything is finally washed clean and blown out with compressed air.

 Once reassembled and re-installed on the bike, there are a couple adjustments made ie...idle mixture and carburetor synchronization, TPS if so equipped, cables lubed and adjusted as well.


This can run as low as $230 for most 2 cylinder bikes out there-to $300/4cyl Goldwings and ST1100's, $400/6 cyl Goldwings,  and $400/Ventures, and V-four bikes typically also run $400.

Most inline 4 cylinder bikes are $260-$280 

This is usually a 2-3 day deal. But if parts need to be ordered, it will take longer. I will look over the rest of the bike as well. (Vacuum hose replacement on a GL1500 runs over $100 in parts-there are dozens of them- and an extra $60 in labor)

 

This would be a good time to do some jetting, as most bikes performance and fun factor is greatly improved by a little jetting changes and since the carburetors will already be off and fully disassembled, these changes won't cost nearly as much as they would if it was a stand alone jetting install.

 

An update on this....I have ran into no less than 4 bikes where parts are listed as available from the manufacturer but they took close to or over a month to receive. All of these bikes were late 70's-early 80's vintage, except one 2002 Suzuki Bandit1200S---just as heads up for restoring that era of bike, or anyone contending with the new Suzuki ordering inventory/stocking system since their bankruptcy filing.

                                             TIRE CHANGES

 

--TIRE CHANGES--varies by bike (see *** below)

 

--OFF THE BIKE-----$25.00 fronts--$30.00 rears each for mounting and balancing on *most* bikes--------- $50/set done at same time

--ON THE BIKE------$40.00 fronts--$50.00 rears mounting and balancing for *most* bikes------------------- $80/set done at same time

 

IF YOU CHOOSE TO LEAVE YOUR OLD TIRES HERE, THERE WILL BE A $3.00 PER TIRE CHARGE. That is the cost of disposal/recycling.

 

***There are a few models that I can quote right now as more money for mounting and balancing--

Some exceptions to the above on the bike pricing guideline; 

-- Goldwing 1100/1200/1500 rears-$95, fronts-$45.00..........................................$130/set

--Goldwing 1800 rears @ $60, fronts also @ $60.................................................$110/set

-- ST1100/1300 rears-$75 .................................................................................... $100/set

-- VTX1800 rears-$95.00........................................................................................$130/set

--V-Star1300/1100/650 rears-$105.00....................................................................$140/set

--VN1500(Vulcan) rears-$105.00...........................................................................$140/set

--VN1500 (Drifter) rears- $95.00, fronts-$50.00 (need tubes)............................... $130/set

--Stratoliner/Roadstar/Royalstar rears-$105.00......................................................$140/set

--Intruder rears-$95.00............................................................................................$130/set

--Victory rears-$95.00..............................................................................................$130/set 

--VTR250 front-$50.00.............................................................................................$90/set

--Concours1000 rears-$65.00..................................................................................$100/set

--Harley front-$60.00 or Rears $110.00...................................................................$160/set


Any of the motorcycles with spoke wheels need tubes!! Generally the Labor runs in the $90.00 for rear range and $55.00 for front (if not already listed above)--any tube type tire must have a new inner tube!  ..   $130 per set when both done in the same visit. 

210/240 size tires,  $130.00 would be in the ballpark for on the bike just the rear. 

................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ Chain / Belt adjustment and brake pads/shoe checks are all included in the service. Shaft drive bikes, the splines are properly lubricated, chain drive bikes the chain is lubricated. ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. These can be a while you wait (when scheduling permits) or at least a same day deal, there is reading materials and a chair outside, if you so choose to wait. It can be a 1+ hour process for sport bikes and 2+ hours for some cruisers and touring bikes for a single rear tire. You will not be in the garage watching and slowing down the process. (I just work better and faster without an audience and without distractions. Plus there is less chances of any mistakes from distractions if you are not there trying to polish your swing arm or the back of your engine and asking questions/being in the way)

There may be other bikes that are in the more expensive category, I just haven't run into one recently enough to remember.


TPMS batteries. CR2032 for the Concours 1400 and Goldwing 1800's I have on hand at all times. these are typically reading 3.25v-3.31v brand new. I will replace the soldered in batteries if you request. It typically runs an additional $60 for parts and labor when done with tire change (for the pair). I have seen numerous 4-7 yr bikes already with low batteries (2.9v or less). This is relatively easy to do once apart

STEERING HEAD BEARINGS ADJUSTMENT AND/OR INSTALLATION

--STEERING HEAD BEARING INSTALL/ADJUSTMENT--This varies greatly from bike to bike, a simple adjustment on some bikes is a 20 minute deal, while on others it can be a 2+ hour ordeal to adjust, Installation on some "standards" take about 90 minutes, while some cruisers, touring and sport bikes take 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 hours. (VN1500 is one of those about 45 minutes to an hour bikes for adjustment, most sport bikes are about 30 minutes to adjust (some of the current models with OE dampers take about 45 minutes just to adjust), and GL1800 is about 2.0 hours to adjust and 3.7 hours to install new, 2012^ ZX10R with ABS is about 3.5 hours to replace and requires bleeding the brakes, Royal Star Venture is well over 5 hours total to install new or adjust properly as the fairing and more have to be removed)


  The bearings run about $45.00 for most bikes and you may as well upgrade to tapered rollers as they last longer and work smoother, often times for less money than OE ball bearings

                         CHAIN AND SPROCKET INSTALLATION

--CHAIN AND SPROCKET INSTALLATION--$70 for most bikes.


Kits are available from $160-$239 depending on model and what you want for brands. This is usually a 2 hour or less turnaround deal--  I do have many sprocket and chain set ups in stock.

                                           WHEEL BEARINGS

--WHEEL BEARING INSTALLATION--generally at $45 per wheel (off the bike)--however doing in combination with tire changes, fork seals etc, there will be a "package" price deal savings you some money. A front example would be...tire mount and balance @$40.00 and wheel bearing replacement @$45.00, instead  of $85, as a package deal would be $70.00


Bikes like the Royal Star Venture with disc covers that encompass the entire seal and all that needs to be removed to get to the bearings start at $60 per wheel to install new bearings (wheel off the bike pricing)

                          MISCELLANEOUS SERVICE INFORMATION

--Electrical problems--diagnostic time is @ $65/hour with a $50 minimum charge.


--Engine removal and re-installation is a minimum of $400 but some bikes (ie ST1100/1300....$1750) will be upwards of $750

 

--WITH MOST EVERY SERVICE BIKE-- I will be checking and adjusting air pressure, check the oil level and give the bike a look over for any hazards or obvious needed repairs. Usually I will adjust the throttle cables and clutch lever free play when they are readily accessible. (I do offer safety inspections if you want something more in depth, or have certain concerns)


--ACCESSORIES INSTALLATION--from power commanders to exhausts, well I am mechanical service oriented not, "hey look at my coolness" so I have little interest in adding HID's, underglows or LED's etc... but if you need some frame sliders or rearsets or a new windshield, grips or levers etc....well I do those plenty often 


--CRASH DAMAGE-- hopefully you won't need this service. But I do offer insurance estimates and have a good relationship with all the insurance carriers to make the process smooth and as painless as can be for you. Typically this takes a couple hours- $100.00 is the minimum charge (insurance typically pays for this) I can always save you time and money over the dealers in this area, on both parts and labor. Of course in the end you get to choose what to spend the money on for repairs. But if you choose to have panels repaired and painted- you will need to find your bodyshop and get parts back in a timely manner.


--TOWING SERVICE-- again hopefully you won't need this service, but it does happen. I have a $50 minimum charge for pick-up, unless the service LABOR bill is going to exceed $500.00 then I may charge less or even waive the fee all together depending on your location and timing... I also do on occasion allow you to take my motorcycle specific enclosed trailer and use it to bring your own motorcycle here, free of charge for repeat customers as long as you don't damage the trailer.


--WINTER STORAGE--(November 1-April 1) sport bikes, standards and dirt bikes run $200.00 for the season and other bikes are on a quote basis. Touring bikes and the big cruisers are typically at $260.00. This will include all the prep for winter, battery kept fully charged and getting it ready for riding in the spring. Bikes must come clean and in good mechanical condition. (Exception on the mechanical condition would be for bikes coming for storage and work over the winter--still needs to be clean). Limited amount of room for this, so please reserve ahead of time. Discounted storage fee for work of over $350.00 labor, and FREE storage for the season if your work is totaling over $750.00 labor (you must pay for this in full at drop off). Ask about the specific details for prep. But this is a ride it in, ride it out deal. (Of course I can pick it up and deliver it, if proper arrangements are made for an extra fee- or you can use the trailer and bring it yourself when available)


--Routine maintenance to major engine/transmission work--I will give a written estimate for it all. (Don’t forget to check out the pictures on the "photo gallery” page)

--Receipts and digital pics provided to you with all service work (exception on pictures; any and all "while you wait" work)


CYLINDER HEAD SERVICE-- Valve job, not valve adjustment is very expensive and most current motorcycles do not have valves that can be refaced or butt ground "tipped' to make them still fall in the same shim size range. And OE valves can be very expensive. But one can carefully cut the seats to 3A (like oe) or 5A or even 7A and gain performance back or improve performance. Same goes for matching the seat to the port or the intake boot to the intake port. Loose head can easily run $500 or more in labor, parts can vary wildly from just new seals and shims at around $200 to 16 new valves/guide seals and shims at over $1000, and if you need guides as well, it can easily reach $1400+


OEM PARTS and aftermarket parts available. Honda/Yamaha (ordered on Tuesday by 10 am I typically see Thursday or Friday.) any other day ordered I see it the following Tuesday typically.... Kawasaki/Suzuki I typically see in 4-5 business days. But anything can be overnight shipped for; ($40-$55 per warehouse typically it doesn’t matter if it is one thing from that warehouse or 100 on hon/yam) (kaw/suz go by value of shipped, so $30.00-$65.00 is typical). So if you are in a big hurry, anything can be possible...


My hourly rate is posted as $65/hour-but many of the services I perform at a flat fee and the true hourly is much less.


FRONT OF THE LINE SERVICE--available now @ $130.00/hour (no wait  up to 2+ weeks out for an appointment, and I'll have it done within 24 hours guaranteed, or the labor is free, some jobs this will not be available for) You must set this up with me ahead of time, which may require pre ordering parts on some jobs.


And again, combining services in one trip will usually get you some discounts on the time I charge...depending on the services.

 ( ie.... carb clean with valve adjustments often saves at least $50...fork seals with steering head bearings will save you about $40...getting a chain and sprocket kit installed while also getting a rear tire changed will save you about $20.00)

 

When bringing your m/c in for service work (especially if I am going to have to remove the fuel tank--i.e... carb clean or tune-up work) please bring it with less than 1/2 tank of fuel. (VTX1800, 929RR, 954RR, Stratoliner owners, as empty as possible please as these fuel tanks do not have shut offs) Thank you.


You pissed Lloyd off charge by constantly calling or texting or otherwise being a pain in the ass..... minimum charge $100


You want to watch, double the normal charge.............minimum additional fee is $100


You want to help, quadruple the normal charge............. minimum additional fee is $200


You stop by without an appointment............................... I will not even open the door and if at some time I do allow you in there will be a service charge added to your bill!


You expect me to be available 24/7/365 and have zero boundaries because you are too stupid or too lazy to plan ahead............ Go somewhere else, you don't have enough money for me to even deal with your stupidity and ignorance!


 

 

                                                  EXAMPLES

A Couple Examples of some past more "major service";

-That old relic 84 Magna that you bought super cheap or finally are pulling back out of a long slumber now that the kids are old enough for you to get out and ride again. Yeah, last one I saw needed brake calipers and masters rebuilt, carbs rebuilt with all new parts, then of course the major service tune as everything required work and of course it needed tires..........it was well over $2000

-R6 transmission repair...It was $532.48 in parts and $700 in labor........

-ZX6R replace entire top end and freshen lower end...$1500 labor and $900 in parts--it was a disaster and did require carb cleaning, a new battery etc...(many of the parts were aquired via a donor engine for free)

-FJ1200-Head gasket, base gasket and new rings installation.It was $463.12 in parts and $590 in labor (a bargain considering the valves were adjusted, carbs were "can cleaned" then synchronized and fuel mixture adjusted, oil and filter changed, throttle cable lubed etc... I would not do it for this price again) 

-FZR600- complete!!! engine freshening, carburetor cleaning, new tires, major service tune, new chain and sprockets. This thing had been neglected and abused. $1,778.25 parts and $1,900 in labor costs

-ZX6R, race prep from an abused/neglected and crashed wreck. Including AK-20 suspension up front and Penske in the rear, rearsets, race bodywork, major tune, battery, brake lines & pads, brake calipers rebuilt, new Brembo master cylinder etc... it was about $4,000 in parts and $1,900 in labor

-Goldwing 1100 drop engine for the stator and starter to be replaced...$388 in parts, $700 labor.

-VSTAR1100 remove engine to get to front cylinder head, remove head and retap spark plug threads, clean the carburetors, change oil, adjust valves etc... $750 in labor and $285.00 in parts

-GT750 water buffalo- Hone cylinders and new rings and top end gaskets, clean carburetors and get jetting dialed in so it doesn't sieze yet again. Total bill of $1,500 which included about 2.5 hours of dyno time

-FJR1300, transmission repair-adjust the valves while the engine is out and do all the other "major tune up" adjustments as this bike was way under maintained @ 73,000 miles, it also got tires... $1600 in Labor, $1200 in parts (this bike was a mess!!)

-CRF/YZF, 4 stroke dirt bike top end service- replace valves, new rings, rigid hone etc...$240 in parts, $290 labor

-GSXR600; @ 43,000 miles it apparently had not had the valves adjusted even once as it got bounced from owner to owner. finally it simply would not start when hot and had a lack of power. Well all the valves were open by atleast .001" but as much as .005" (super tight for those who do not understand) and even after adjusting them to the proper clearances. Leakage tests showed more than 25% cylinder leakage past the valves on the best cylinder. Engine disassembly revealed serious transmission issues and a broken clutch pressure plate and two of the clutch basket *bolt bosses for the pressure plate springs* missing. Used 17,000 mile engine @$600 delivered , disassembly and inspection and all new bearings and shift forks, adjust the valves and do a major service tune on the entire bike. This ended up being about a $4000 hit this new owner surely did not expect on his $5000 bike purchase that supposedly came with a warranty from the dealer he bought it at. (just for reference- the broken parts alone would have cost more than the new used engine, and either way we needed nearly $500 in gaskets and seals... so this was one of those rare occasions where a new used engine was the better deal than fixing what he had. That dealer warranty- he tried to get them to fix it on their 50/50 warranty and it would have cost him over $3000 and all they were going to do was drop in a used engine and hope it was fine. Some warranty... sounds like shyster talk of bait and switch to me) 

-ZX6R- supersport race build, including engine R&R. $2,200 labor, nearly $3,500 parts

-250 Ninja 285 kit and more. basically a superbike internal build with supersport legal external appearance. $2,900

-ST1300 engine transplant.....I wouldn't do it again for anything under $2000 in labor costs on just the exchange- everything else is extra

PRICES CAN AND DO VARY BASED ON CONDITION OF BIKE AND ACCESSORIES... But you can save yourself some money here too!

 ~Poorly installed Underglow lighting is not cool, especially if there are no connectors to unplug and the bodywork cannot be removed without cutting wires

~Shoddy workmanship is not cool, I so despise when bikes are hacked together where nothing fits

~Zip Ties, duct tape and non oem fasteners are not cool. Even worse is ramming SAE bolts where metric is supposed to go

~18 gazillion random wires run poorly all over the bike are not cool

~belly pans full of dirt, water, oil, rocks and sand are not cool

~Your fork seals have been leaking so long the radiator is full of oil as is the entire wheel assembly, brakes , engine and body panels from the wind blowing it everywhere. You either go pay $5 at the power car wash and clean it thoroughly or expect to pay atleast an extra hour of labor charges for me to do it. Believe me it is far cheaper for you to wash it before bringing it in.

 

IE.... you have underglows glued to all your body panels and those need to come off for a tune up or oil change and you didn't install plug in connectors that easily plug in and unplug......yes you guessed it-that will cost you extra-atleast a 1 hour charge for the inconvenience and aggrevation of having to repair shoddy workmanship. And if I have to resort to cutting the wires and installing plugs ins, well that will add even further to the bill.

 

IE 2.... you installed Halos and/or HID lighting and your ballasts and wiring is all over in the way and somehow I am expected to shove them all neatly in somewhere (even though you or your installer did not).....yes you are being charged for every minute of my time to redo all your (or your friends) shoddy work.

 

IE 3.... you bring me something crashed and all the panels have been taped and ziptied and has a handful of fasteners from who knows what on it (often car parts and cross threaded/stripped). Yes you will be charged more and quite likely if really bad be handed back the panels off the bike with all your crappy cheap fasteners unless you want to pay for the correct fasteners and retapping all those bolt holes

 

IE 4.... You (or your buddy or some previous owner etc) rammed a SAE bolt into your head to hold the frame slider in place of the metric bolt that is supposed to be there. You will be charged more, and if by chance the head is trashed from this ignorance, well they are not cheap to buy and even less cheap to install. Same goes for the idgits who do things like this and they are broken or break off when trying to remove them. 



 

You want to alleviate these charges, do not be a dumbass and/or remove all the crap before you bring it in. Then bring it in clean. There is not much worse than working on dirty stuff that has been worked on by some hack where one has to spend more time on the "shit" than the actual service work itself.

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